Deflated and Defeated by the McCarthy Road

Monday, June 1, 2009 – Day 32 – One Month on the Road

We were off this morning for our adventure down the McCarthy Road, leading into Wrangell-St.Elias National Park . We were camped about 33 miles away from the start of the McCarthy road over a roller-coaster, frost-heaved paved road.  This area is predominantly rolling, grazing and agricultural land.  We were surprised to learn that nearby Chitina features an agricultural fair in early September called the Giant Cabbage Festival.

We arrived at the start of the McCarthy Road at about 09:30 AM.  There is still evidence of its railway heritage with a number of twisted rails by the side of the road and wooden railway ties making an appearance periodically through the gravel covering.  The first five miles were verrry rugged and rough, with large potholes and stones every few feet. (The Ranger had told us yesterday that the road had just been graded and was in “fairly good shape”.)  There should be a universal lexicon for describing road conditions.  I would have called this section of road “crater-like”!  We made it past the first five miles and things started to settle down with only the occasional pothole and some washboard sections.  We stopped periodically at scenic turnouts to take some pictures of the stunning scenery. 

We stopped at one turnout to photograph the Kuskulana Bridge, just before we crossed over it.  This is a single lane, wooden decked, railway bridge. and apparently up till 1988 when it was rehabilitated it was, “The biggest thrill on the road to McCarthy.”  Up till that time many of the bridge planks were missing and people could see the river - 238 feet below. When I got out of the truck to take some pictures, Janet said that she could hear a sound like air escaping. Of course, I did not have my hearing aides on so I gave the tires a quick look and they appeared to be OK.  We proceeded across the bridge.

There was a turnout with a restroom just on the opposite end of the bridge so we pulled in there.  I went back to the bridge to get some more pictures and when I returned this is what greeted me. 

We have Roadside Service through the Good Sam Club, but golly-darn; in the middle of nowhere – there is NO SERVICE on your cell phone.  I had to resort to the old standby.  I dug out the manual to see where the jack was stored. (In reality I knew where the jack was, I just hadn’t ever had to use it before.  Fortunately I had inflated the spare tire in Winnipeg.  A woman and her son stopped to help.  She suggested that you need two spares on this road - “One to get you there and one to get you back”  Thanks for the advice, but just a little late.  We got the spare on and decided that, “Wisdom was the better part of valour” – We wouldn’t proceed any further without a spare. The rear tires are starting to display the wear bars.  (I thought I could get just a few more miles out of them – Wrong!)  Anyway we are packing up tomorrow morning and heading for Anchorage, our next scheduled stop. It is about 230 miles away.  Hopefully the “Road Gods” will be kind to us.  – We will get new tires there.

Addendum -  The lady who gave us the sound advice about carrying two spares also told us about Daniel Boone ( almost as funny as Jerry Lewis ) Tire Repair Shop on C Street in Chitina.  Chitina is at the start of the McCarthy Road.  Anyway, as we limped our way back, defeated by the McCarthy Road, we thought we better try Daniel Boone’s Tire Repair.  We turned off of Main Street and followed the hand written “Tire Repair” signs with trepidation, fearing that we would be ripped-off by some dude waiting to prey on unsuspecting, ill-prepared tourists. Now don’t get me wrong when I say this, Alaskans live in one of the most beautiful places on earth, but they want to surround themselves with all their possessions - working or not, rusted-out and totally worthless.  It almost appears as if it is a status symbol to park 10 or so derelict cars, trailers, barrels or what have you, in your yard.  Daniel is the same way.  A super, friendly guy, Daniel is in his mid-fifties with considerably more hair than myself, combed back in a pony-tail.  Mutton-chop side burns complete the picture.  He gave Janet his business card and a piece of copper ore that he had from when he was hauling ore for the mining companies.  His card reads, “Dan’s Tire & Automotive Repair – Home of the Happy Hooker Tow Truck”. As his son repaired the tire, he told me that the shop we were standing in was built out of wooden pallets thirty-two years ago.   It is still standing today, a testament to the innovative, frontier spirit of Alaskans. After the tire repair, we were run out of town by the local dogs. By the way – How do you tell a tourist in Alaska?  They are the ones with cameras around their necks and their dog on a leash.