The Chilkat Pass to Haines, AK

Friday, May 22, 2009 – Day 22 – Janet’s Birthday – 3 Weeks on the road

We followed Highway 3 (the Haines Hwy) out of Haines Junction, YT and followed the northern edge of Kluane National Park. We could see numerous mountain glaciers as we passed along the road. Kluane and the neighbouring Wrangell, St. Elias National Park and Preserve have the highest concentration of alpine glaciers in the world. There were very few vehicles on this highway which at times made it seem quite desolate. There is no cell phone signal in this area so if you break down; you’re on your own. Fortunately that didn’t happen today.

The scenery was wonderful through the Chilkat Pass. On the way up we saw three black bears, a moose and trumpeter swans. Still a fair amount of snow in the pass here. When we started to descend the other side it was as if we were in another land…actually it was the USA…but more importantly the trees were in full leaf almost all of the snow was gone and the temperature rose to 17C under sunny skies. When we spoke to the border guards they told us that this was very unseasonable…Normally it is in the 50’sF with lots of rain. They also told us that it had been like this for the last month and a half. They informed us that there were open fire bans throughout the area for fear of forest fires.

Just before we arrived at the border station we had seen what appeared to be a small hummock of grass beside the shoulder. As we got a little closer we noticed that it was moving. It turned out to be a porcupine and apparently there are a number of them in this area. This area is also well known for eagles. When the salmon are running in the fall, there are thousands of them here for the feast. One person we spoke to said there are so many that “they look like Christmas tree ornaments in the trees.” This time of year they are a lot more scarce but we saw about 1 dozen today. We actually saw one young eagle plunge for some prey. They can apparently carry prey that is up to 10 lbs. in weight.

We are parked at the Oceanside RV Park, along the Lynn Canal, (Its not actually a canal but a huge fjord that extends to the Pacific Ocean.) We have a view of mountains across the canal from us and about a half hour ago a cruise ship which departed from Skagway passed by. We will be staying in Haines for the next three days so will have a good opportunity to explore.

We also have phenomenal Wi Fi through a hot spot provided by Alaska Power and Telephone (AP&T). We had this same service in Skagway and it was excellent. We pay $12.95 for three days of service, but that is a small price to pay for the convenience and Janet’s ability to stay in touch with the outside world. (She reads the Winnipeg Free Press headline stories to me every morning while I prepare breakfast.) We have found most places that offer free Wi Fi have poor performance with the connection dropping constantly…just a lesson in frustration. Hopefully, they will offer this service elsewhere in Alaska as we travel.